ATHENS & GREEK ISLANDS
About
Europe has always topped my bucket list, so when my daughter signed up for a semester abroad and invited me to join her once she was finished, I jumped at the opportunity. Although it didn't quite go as planned, it ended up being the trip of a lifetime!
THE DETAILS
We had booked our flights and accommodations to Italy in 2020 right before the world shut down, so my daughter's semester abroad was canceled and our trip was postponed. When our flights vouchers were about to expire in 2022, our airline had yet to post routes to Italy on our chosen dates. My daughter and I were still just as excited about our second choice: Greece! I chose our hotels and locations based on recommendations from various vloggers. While the weather in mid-May wasn't ideal (it was 90+ in Athens but chilly enough for sweaters on the islands), the lines and small crowds were extremely manageable in the off-season. We stayed a total of seven days, not counting the two and a half days of outgoing and return flights. Despite having to take a painfully long route to arrive there via three different flights (thanks, Condor) and having a near-death experience on a ferry (cries of a "fire" during a storm with tumultuous waves), it was still an unforgettably amazing experience!
GETTING AROUND
After spending two nights in Athens where we were able to walk everywhere, we visited three of the Greek islands in the Aegean Sea: Mykonos, Paros, and Santorini. Frequent ferries and flights made it easy enough to visit three islands in just seven days. Getting around on the islands was fairly simple as well, as long as we planned ahead and called for a private transfer (taxis were difficult to find). We weren't brave enough to try their buses, the only form of public transportation available. The Greek language isn't the easiest to learn, especially when their vowels are so different (i.e. Oia is pronounced E-yah), and I got a little backwards once we were on the islands, so I wasn't confident enough to navigate around the different stops. **Caveat: while the ferries are convenient, I do NOT recommend taking one in a storm. I've never been surrounded by so many sick people in my life! Pro tip: take motion-sickness meds ahead of time or wear sea bands.
Plaka,
Athens
Of the dozens of big cities I've visited, Athens (specifically the neighborhood of Plaka) was by far the most beautiful and quickly became my favorite. Its culture and history are both so rich that you can't help but feel it in your soul. We spent our one full day in the city simply wandering the charming (and moped filled) cobblestone streets. Our gorgeous hotel (Palladian Home...view from our room on the top right) overlooked a beautiful little courtyard and was located right in the middle of everything we wanted to see. Walking to the Parthenon took less than fifteen minutes, but finding our way to the top of the ancient citadel took nearly an hour once there as there weren't any signs showing how to get up there (we were among a handful of Americans aimlessly wandering in search of the right path).
MYKoNOS
The moment we stepped foot on our hotel's stunning property in Psarroy (Nissaki Boutique Hotel...see its view in top middle pic), I was in madly love. Mykonos was my favorite island of the three we visited, mostly due to our evening spent in Little Venice. The quaint village with picturesque views around every whitewashed corner was grossly overpriced in some areas and we had our only experience with someone being rude to us while in Greece (looking at you, Mamalouka). But once we followed a local's advice and secured a seaside front-seat to one of the most stunning sunsets imaginable at a quaint little restaurant and cocktail bar called Katerina's (with an amazing wait staff), we were enchanted. Greece is known for late night dining, so when we arrived a little after 6 p.m. we were able to snag one of three little tables on their only balcony with a bird's eye view of the island's world-famous windmills. Our second day on the island was spent lounging around our hotel's luxurious property, then taking a tour of Mykonian Land, a local winery (highly recommended: separate blog post to come)!
NAousA,
PAROS
The overall vibe of Naousa, a charming little fishing village within walking distance from our beautiful Senia Hotel, was more laid back, and more locals than tourists inhabited the winding cobblestone streets. Every restaurant provided outdoor seating with phenomenal views of the sea and sunset. I purchased some of my favorite souvenirs in its lovely shopping district and enjoyed some of the best pizza ever at Platia. While I absolutely adored Naousa, I was unimpressed with the public beach across the road from our hotel. Not only was it covered in garbage (including used condoms) but a black substance stuck to my foot that took forever to scrub off. If you plan on staying in Paros, I highly suggest booking a hotel with a beach on their property.
DAY SAIL
After our sketchy ferry ride from Athens to Mykonos, we almost canceled the day long-excursion from Paros to other little Greek islands in the Aegean Sea. The tour was originally supposed to take nine plus hours but ended up taking at least a couple of hours longer due to strong winds. I'm still so grateful we decided to go as it ended up being my favorite day of our trip! We were able to swim in the deep blue (and freezing cold) sea, explore caves, and see several dolphins. We even befriended couples from Canada, Texas, Massachusetts, and Chicago. We enjoyed traditional Greek music while sipping on wine and enjoying a traditional Greek meal. My daughter was brave enough to go cliff jumping along with two of our new friends (while I crawled to the edge like a wild animal and prayed she didn't split her head open on a rock). To anyone visiting Paros, I highly recommend Koufonisia by traditional Kaiki from Paros!
THIRA, SANTORINI
One word comes to mind when I recall our short time on the island: insanity. For the record, I was well aware most of Santorini involves hillside buildings. What I didn't realize? Those hills are situated on an incredibly sharp cliff, making it feel as if you're in the nosebleed section of one of the world's tallest stadiums. As someone who's generally terrified of heights, it was a little overwhelming...especially as a cruise ship had emptied shortly before we arrived, packing the streets and shops. While the prices weren't as steep as I'd been expecting, it was difficult to find a restaurant at (our somewhat early) dinner time. Once we lucked out by finding another little balcony for dinner and drinks, the views at sunset were awe-inspiring. Our accommodations at Modernity Suites were one-of-a-kind, and highly recommended! I only wish we had more time to spend in the little spa tub before the fog rolled in for the remainder of our stay.
FIRA TO OIA
This may have been one of the dumbest ideas I've ever had...taking a seven mile hike one morning, just hours before we had to hop on a plane back to Athens...I'm still amazed my (only mildly athletic, although in much better shape than me) daughter agreed to the plan. I had researched it ahead of time and had a general idea of our route, but nothing was marked and I'm fairly certain we tacked on an extra mile or two at some point. A good chunk of the hike was uphill. At times we were on the narrow shoulder of a busy road. Other times we were attacked by a swarm of bugs. It was one of the hottest days of our trip. But the best part? A heavy fog (known to the locals as an anedousa) had settled over the island the previous night, and blocked our view of the famous blue domes. Because of my aversion to extreme heights, however, a part of me recognized this as a blessing. By the time we arrived in Oia, we were sweaty and exhausted. After a cocktail and large breakfast, we took a private car back to Fira.
TRIP SUMMARY
I don't know how any destination could outdo Greece. This trip exceeded my expectations and then some. I would return in a heartbeat, although I would avoid Santorini and visit one or two of the many other beautiful islands. I would also take a direct flight from Minneapolis to Athens, if there is such a thing. Even with a new fear of ferries, I would unquestionably use them again to island hop if they were priced less than flights. Depending on the amount of days available, I would return to Mykonos and possibly Paros. I'd also love the chance to see more of Athens since our day there only allowed enough time to see one tiny corner. My advice to anyone considering a trip to Greece? Plan for at least two weeks: spend no less than two full days on each island and stop at one or two of your other bucket list countries while over there. Flights between European countries are cheap and short.